Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

DanH

I'm looking at buying a Morris 8 SE and am off to check out a recently restored example this weekend. When looking at cars that have been restored are there any areas that I should pay close attention to, or ask questions about?

I've tried to learn a bit about the SE before going out to look at my first one, I got a couple of workshop manuals and have read the Practical Classics buyer's guide for the Morris 8, so know about the normal rust spots and mechanical issues etc. However other tips would be appreciated!

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4235 Location: South Cheshire

Hi Dan

They are pretty robust motors and parts pretty readily available Smile

The body bolts on to the chassis and actually "close"s the outside of the chassis, when they rust repair panels are welded over the body and chassis, if you can find one where the the body and chassis are clearly separate its a good sign.

The lower left hand corner of the boot often corrodes (it sits just above the exhaust)

Door bottoms often rust from the inside due to condensation.

The chassis can rust badly under the radiator if the has been a long term leak.

The gearbox has syncro on all but 1st gear, check there is no crunching in the other gears.

Electrics can have been messed about with over the years, if it looks a mess budget for a new loom ( about £150 sterling)

The original oval headlamps were flush with the wings but gave poor light, many have been replaced with the 7" Lucas lamps and extensions, up to you what you prefer, they can be swapped around but original oval units are getting pricey.

The grill fixing was never brilliant, and the soldered fasteners tend to come adrift especially at the bottom, many owners have resorted to drilling a hole in the bottom of the grill and putting a bolt through to help things.

The grills can get damaged around the staring handle aperture.

The hydraulic brakes work quite well, the master cylinder however is in quite an exposed position under the drivers foot well, check that its not corroded or leaking.

The indicators (semaphore originally) are operated by a self cancelling switch on the horn surround on the steering wheel, these often get broken, used switches are getting rare and also get snapped up by Healey 3000 owners as its the same switch, so the price rockets!

Steering box's can wear leaving the steering very vague, there is some adjustment in them, but don't expect modern day precision even in an A1 car!

Suspension and engine just all the normal checks

Good look

Dave

Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22782 Location: UK

I can't add much to Dave's summary (as one of the resident M8 gurus Smile

), all I'd say is that if it's been recently restored - not everything that glistens is necessarily gold. If there are photos available describing the resto through its stages prior to painting, it'd pay to have a good look through them to fully understand what resides beneath the paint. If necessary, take a small magnet to test for excess filler around the lower edges of panels.

RJ
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DanH · Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 9:14 pm Post subject:

Thanks, thats all really good advise. I'm hoping that there are at least some photos of the car during restoration so I can get an idea of how the work was done. Bodywork bodges are probably the thing I'm most concerned about.

I'm expecting some modification to the wiring loom as the car has had a 12 conversion done. However, electrical problems are not really a worry for me as I've been restoring vintage radios for years and believe me an 8's wiring diagram is pretty simple compared to a radio of the same era!

Anyway, I'll let you all know how it goes Very Happy

Rick · Site Admin Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22782 Location: UK

Good luck with the inspection - here's a presentable one, also in NZ (although I'm not keen on the re-trimmed interior)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/morris/auction-856193871.htm

RJ
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bjacko · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 7:20 am Post subject: Morris 8 Ser E

A lot of people complain about the brakes on older cars because they are used to driving modern cars. The Morris brakes are very good for the time they were produced, so don't expect brakes like a modern car!!!.

DanH · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 9:29 pm Post subject:

Yes, that blue one is quite a nice example. Although it is located in a rather remote part of NZ. One of the last ones made, a 1949. I always thought production of the 8 stopped in 1948 but perhaps assembly continued in NZ into 1949?

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4235 Location: South Cheshire

DanH · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:38 pm Post subject:

I thought that was the case, out of interest I looked up the registration number for the blue SE and it was first registered here on March 22 1949.

goneps · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:47 pm Post subject:

Dan,

Since you're in Auckland you should know that there's a very active branch of the Morris Register located here. We have a well-stocked parts shed at Pukekohe and hold monthly runs and events—in fact there's run taking place today. You'll find us a very friendly and helpful bunch.

If you send me a PM I'll let you have contact details for the secretary.

Richard

DanH · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 11:04 pm Post subject:

Already a member goneps! You may have seen my wanted ad in the latest club magazine.

goneps · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 11:18 pm Post subject:

Good man! Have only glanced at the newsletter thus far—been up to my eyeballs in muck and bullets with the Tourer's brakes. See you at a club event soon, I hope.

Richard

DanH · Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 8:25 am Post subject:

Well I'm back from looking at the SE, it was a nice wee machine. 1939, two door in red and black.

The most noticeable thing about it was that it was sitting on a set of Morris Minor wheels! The owner had decided that the original wheels were no good because the tyres were too pricey. He had the MM wheels drilled to accept the six studs on the 8 hubs. It was sitting a bit lower to the ground because of this, but it didn't seem to affect the driveablility.

The original rear axle had been removed and replaced with a Austin A35 unit and a Morris Minor diff head. This meant that the car now has the correct ratio for the smaller wheels. The brake parts etc were original 8. Unfortunately the owner no longer had the original wheels and axle so if I was to purchase the car a trip the the club parts shed or some autojumble searching may be in order!

The body and chassis looked pretty sound, I checked all the places suggested by UKDave2002 and counted a full set of screws attaching the sills to chassis rails. The boot floor had been replaced, new panel welded in.

The interior had been re-trimmed in brown and the headlining was in good order.

The engine, although not rebuilt, ran well with a little tappet noise and good oil pressure. We did a test drive up a pretty steep hill and the engine pulled well in third gear all the way up. On the way back down the hill I found the brakes to be in good fettle.

Anyway it was a pretty good example of a DIY restoration on a reasonably sound car.

I've got another 8 to look at yet, a 1948 four door that is in more original condition and has a rebuilt engine. Then I'll make a decision about which one I want! Neither car is advertised at present, so that takes the pressure off a bit.

goneps · Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 1:18 am Post subject:

Dan,

Personally I'd steer well clear of a car that's been thoroughly messed about as you describe. There are lots of good Series Es about and they sell for very little money, so my advice would be to hang in and wait for a decent, reasonably original example to come along.

Last month a good 1939 E was offered in the M8TC newsletter, fully restored, for $4,500. I'm acquainted with the owner; he was a professional mechanic who spent much of his career working on these cars when they were in everyday use (less than forty years ago in many cases). Inconveniently it's in Christchurch, but to my way of thinking such a car would be worth the extra trouble and expense rather than taking a chance on the sort of bitza (potentially a minefield) you've detailed.

Richard

DanH · Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 1:50 am Post subject:

After having a good think about it last night, I have to agree with you Richard. I'm sure I can find a better, more original car for the same money the seller was asking for this '39. There were too many things about it that made me unsure. For example the owner had never even taken the sump off the engine during the restoration despite the fact the car had been sitting for many years. For me that is something I would do quite early on.