Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

zagatoman · Joined: 31 Aug 2010 Posts: 55 Location: Sutton, Surrey

Hi all

I am looking to buy a 2 door Morris 8 series 1 and have found that looks like the ideal car. I haven't viewed the car yet but have been told that it has a small problem when running as it seems to have lost a bit of its power, start and ticks over fine. The very kind gentleman has been very honest about its condition and its running sluggishly. He thinks it could be a stuck valve, if so is this something a novice like myself could sort out or is it an engine out job. I have never worked on a side valve before.

Thanks, Paul
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Enthusiastic amateur classic car nut.

bjacko · Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 7:54 am Post subject: Engine problem

I would do a compression check first. Then check the timing. If they are OK check that the advance mechanism in the base of the distributor is not rusted up. Finally check the exhaust system is clear. There should be no back pressure.

peter scott · Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7211 Location: Edinburgh

Hi Paul,

There is no need to take the engine out to sort a stuck valve although you would probably need to remove the cylinder head.
This is very easy on the Morris 8. Removing the valve and cleaning its stem would probably sort it. You would need a valve spring compressor to remove and refit the valve. These are not expensive.

Peter
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goneps · Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 11:51 pm Post subject:

Just to add my tuppence-worth, a recent case of sticking valve with a fellow club member's Series 1 Two-Seater caused much grief over a long period. Eventually it was traced to a broken tappet, and that certainly does require the engine to be removed. An unusual case, perhaps, but it's as well to be aware of the possibility that it might not be so simple to fix.

As regards valve spring compressors, the type normally sold for OHV engines are far too big and clumsy for the restricted confines of the Eight's valve chest. You'd probably be better off with a cheap G-clamp with a slot cut or ground into its foot.

Richard

roverdriver · Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2015 11:26 am Post subject:

Well stated, Richard. I have used a G-clamp many times, then I found a proper spring compressor for side valve engines, which indeed made life much easier.

I did a valve job on a Series E once, with the car parked in the street. Head off, then front left wheel off, undo the cover plate on the inside of the left mudguard to get at the tappet cover. IIRC I had to stuff rag into the oil drainholes in the tappet box, for fear of losing a valve stem collete down there.
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goneps · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:28 am Post subject:

Quite so, Dane. An engineer pal made me a custom valve spring compressor, which is essentially a G-clamp with mods.

I've no experience with the Series E, but on the earlier 35/Series 1/Series 2 cars it's easier either to take out the engine or remove the front wing for access, since they have no detachable inner wing panel. Only a contortionist could do the job otherwise.

I remove the wing to adjust tappets. It takes only half an hour to remove or refit, and makes the job so much easier.

Richard

ukdave2002 · Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4231 Location: South Cheshire

If you are lucky the inlet manifold may have been taped in order that a vacuum gauge can be attached, if so a quick test will pinpoint a sticking valve .

Cheers

Dave

roverdriver · Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:11 am Post subject:

A very useful and very low-tech implement for detecting certain problems with internals, is simply a spark plug with a tyre valve fitted in place of the porcelain. I made one up many years ago using a plug that could be separated, and a valve cut from an old inner tube.

Screw the 'tester' in a plug hole, then apply some pressure via the valve- turn the engine so the piston is at or close to TDC on compression, then listen. A hiss from the carby- stuck or burned inlet valve. Hiss from exhaust ditto exhaust valve. Hiss audible via the oil filler- worn rings.

Modern plugs are a little more difficult to adapt, but once made, you have that tool for ever- or at least until the rubber deteriorates.
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Dane- roverdriver but not a Viking.

bjacko · Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:11 am Post subject: Possible stuck valve

I had a stuck valve and it makes quite a rattle when you rev up the engine, but not at idle..
I also had a problem of lack of power and found that the accelerator was not moving the carby throttle far enough open. Simple adjustment to the carby throttle linkage and it had max power back. Check by pushing the accelerator to the floor and make sure the throttle is fully open.

zagatoman · Joined: 31 Aug 2010 Posts: 55 Location: Sutton, Surrey

Hi all, thanks for all the advice, but good new, wasn't a stuck valve as I was told but just the condenser that needed changing. Now that has saved me a few hours work but I am now a bit disappointed, I was looking forward to repairing the valve as after all your help I felt confident in tackling the job.

Hopefully you can all help me out with other problems in the future.

Thanks, Paul
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Enthusiastic amateur classic car nut.