Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Ellis]

For thirty years I have been a Waxoyl man. In 1989 I bought a new VW Caddy Pick Up and rustproofed it myself with Waxoyl. I recall that I used five x5 litre cans of clear Waxoyl, drilled holes in sills, A and B pillars and injected it with Waxoyl with a Schutz gun and an extension tube.

Ten years and 157k miles later it was rust free apart from one small area I HAD missed - the upper offside door hinge. It used to perspire Waxoyl in hot weather and I would redo it every year or so. The vehicle still exists and was last MOT'd two years ago.

I have followed suit on the Jaguar Mark 2 and the 2a Land Rover. Last year I bought a Land Rover Defender td5 110 pick up which had not been treated from new. There was some surface rust on the chassis and on the outriggers.
To "do" a Land Rover properly you should use a ramp so I asked my local garage owner with whom I have been friendly with for 25+ years if he would rustproof to his own high standards.
I then asked my friend Bobby, the local Land Rover expert what he used.
To my surprise he doesn't use Waxoyl any longer and he advised me to use the following based on his experience ;

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and :

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Ten litres of each were bought. The "C" fluid was injected into the chassis and bulkhead and any closed or semi closed sections and the remainder with the Ankor Wax.
The former is thin and needs no diluting or heating and was injected at 60psi.
The latter, the Ankor Wax, needed heating up and simply sprayed on. It stuck to the prepared chassis like glue.
Both smelled awful by the way and two months later I can still smell both from five yards.
Time will tell as to it's effectiveness.

Dinitrol is supposed to be very good and so are Dynax Bilt Hamber products.
The local Land rover enthusiasts use chain saw oil but I decided not to use it.

I have no connection to Morris Oils of Shrewsbury.

What do you all use?
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Starting Handle Expert

1964 Jaguar Mark 2 3.4 litre
1962 Land Rover Series 2a 88"
2002 BMW M3 E46 Cabriolet

[Bitumen Boy]

I'm a fan of Bilt-Hamber's Dynax waxes, which I consider superior to either Waxoyl or Dinitrol, though I may have to try this stuff from Morris in the future. The main thing to remember though is that none of these rustproofing products are "spray and forget" - as a bare minimum you need to inspect yearly and retreat any areas that need attention.

[kevin2306]

I used Dinitrol on the Singer, not that it will see salt etc but being an unwelded car it seemed sensible to inject the cavities etc.
Dinitrol do a very thin liquid for the cavities and a thicker product for other areas bit like waxoyl and was easy to apply.
Ive heard good things about that Ankor wax but not seen it for sale anywhere (other than online)

Kev

[emmerson]

My current Range Rover was Waxoyled when I bought it seven years ago, and I've re-done it four times since.
I did it last September, along with a mate's Shogun, and we used an old Burco boiler to heat the stuff. It sprayed on like water, and ran beautifully into all the nooks and crannies.

[Ellis]

[baconsdozen]

Nothing will stop iron rusting,you can slow it down. I tried experimenting with all the standard chemicals ands came to the conclusion that all the oils and waxes work to some degree,their success seems more to depend on a sound film beinb kept at all times so that the metal underneath is protected.My own favourite is 'Eureka' fluid film,topped up every few months. I did find (when I supplied equipment to fishing boats) that even thick grease applied on a regular basis almost stops further corrosion as well as some expensive purpose made products and that a scratch or small bare area in the middle of a large painted or otherwise protected area results in rust penetrating faster and deeper than if the panel was left bare.
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Thirty years selling imperial hand tools for old machinery(Now happily retired).