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MVPeters
Joined: 28 Aug 2008 Posts: 822 Location: Northern MA, USA
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Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 12:42 am Post subject: |
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Chin up. Ray, you're almost there!
re the switches - if you haven't sent them back yet, they may be OK.
I think the nut on the shaft is not meant to be disturbed, if you slacken it, you should be able to rotate the shaft to re-align the contacts inside. Then lock it in place.
Use a separate nut or 2 to install the switch to the bulkhead.
re the battery - oddly enough there was a very similar thread on a MINI forum that I follow. The battery had plenty of voltage bits but no oomph - oomphs were added & all is now well. You should be able to charge that battery enough to get the motor spinning & once it is, it doesn't take as much current (oomph) to keep it turning over. _________________ Mike - MVPeters at comcast.net
2002 MINI Cooper 'S' |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6371 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 10:13 am Post subject: |
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To be honest I didn't realise the nut should not be disturbed. I had planned on re purposing the "mousetrap" to mount the switch. I can't secure the switch flush with the mousetrap without removing the nut and fitting it on the inside.
That's a bug88r.
I will have the battery on charge to see what happens. I really didn't want to shell out on a new one until the car was more or less completed.
Things are not the same when you have your income slashed. |
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Peter_L
Joined: 10 Apr 2008 Posts: 2680 Location: New Brunswick. Canada.
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Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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You don't need to switch the high current to the starter. Find a switch that you can adapt aesthetically with the "Mousetrap". Wire the motor direct to the battery and use the switch to activate the solenoid.
Switch examples via Google "Momentary Pull Switches"
This looks nice https://brillman.com/product/momentary-pull-switch/ |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6371 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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Peter_L wrote: | You don't need to switch the high current to the starter. Find a switch that you can adapt aesthetically with the "Mousetrap". Wire the motor direct to the battery and use the switch to activate the solenoid.
Switch examples via Google "Momentary Pull Switches"
This looks nice https://brillman.com/product/momentary-pull-switch/ |
Yes, they look nice but I have spent ages sourcing ivory coloured knobs and switches to match on the instrument panel. Also, this type of cable pull starter switch has been fine on thousands of MG TDs so a TC upgrade shouldn't be a problem. Octagon Club spares people have not had one returned before so this must just be a bad batch..... ether that or I am fitting it incorrectly. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6371 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 1:55 pm Post subject: |
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Incidentally here is a close up shot of the main cable
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 1958 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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Golly gosh...I had a pull switch for my Cannon Special...knobless....it got the sawn-off end of a wooden handled screwdriver, drilled and 'screwed' on...rather smart with its red stripes.. _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 6371 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 2:58 pm Post subject: |
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alastairq wrote: | Golly gosh...I had a pull switch for my Cannon Special...knobless....it got the sawn-off end of a wooden handled screwdriver, drilled and 'screwed' on...rather smart with its red stripes.. |
I'm sure it worked perfectly well whatever it's appearance .
My TC will need to go and look a bit special or it will have all been in vain. |
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