Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7128 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2023 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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alastairq wrote: |
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............Yet so many folk seem to equate the amount of money they have parted with, to the disproportionate increase in trust & faith displayed?.................
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That sounds a bit like me.
Not anymore.
I have been so badly let down by people who should know better in both goods and services that I no longer trust anyone.  |
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bjacko
Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Posts: 523 Location: Melbourne Australia
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Posted: Tue Jun 13, 2023 6:58 am Post subject: Brake cylinder |
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One would expect the supplier, repairer or manufacturer to have tested the item before selling it!
I got caught with a Rover speedometer transducer that was supposed to be brand new in a Rover packet. The packet was previously opened and obvious the item had been used. Probably the unserviceable unit after fitting the original from the packet. I bought a new one cheaper than the rubbish unit. _________________ 1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7128 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 4:45 pm Post subject: Re: Brake cylinder |
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bjacko wrote: | One would expect the supplier, repairer or manufacturer to have tested the item before selling it!
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I have just opened a new tin of cellulose paint supplied through NTG (MG specialists) and it is un-usable. I guess it has just "gone off". I had a similar problem with some paint that I had let get exposed to frost. Perhaps that is what has happened here; I don't know.
The supplier will arrange for another tin to be delivered so I suppose I can't complain. |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 2121 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | The supplier will arrange for another tin to be delivered so I suppose I can't complain. |
Do they have a choice??  _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7128 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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alastairq wrote: | Quote: | The supplier will arrange for another tin to be delivered so I suppose I can't complain. |
Do they have a choice??  |
I suppose in law it could be stated that the paint (which cost £100 + VAT etc.) is not fit for purpose; in that respect they are probably obliged to either replace or refund.
However, there might be an argument that after straining, the bulk of the paint could be used... but the considerable amount of dregs deposited in the screen may be what contains the pigment? Even if that was not the case, I would still have been short changed.
So I guess the issue boils down to reputation. I am a regular NTG customer and that must mean something???.
Having said that, the guy at NTG didn't call back as promised, so I will have to call them in the morning to find out how they got on with the paint suppliers.
So as to show there is no ill feeling on my part, I am inclined to increase the order to 5 litres. .  |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4240 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 7:41 pm Post subject: Re: Brake cylinder |
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Ray White wrote: | bjacko wrote: | One would expect the supplier, repairer or manufacturer to have tested the item before selling it!
................. |
I have just opened a new tin of cellulose paint supplied through NTG (MG specialists) and it is un-usable. I guess it has just "gone off". I had a similar problem with some paint that I had let get exposed to frost. Perhaps that is what has happened here; I don't know.
The supplier will arrange for another tin to be delivered so I suppose I can't complain. | I have had cellulose paint that’s 10 years old and is ok, possibly it’s the amount of air in the tin?
Dave |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7128 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2023 7:45 pm Post subject: Re: Brake cylinder |
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ukdave2002 wrote: | Ray White wrote: | bjacko wrote: | One would expect the supplier, repairer or manufacturer to have tested the item before selling it!
................. |
I have just opened a new tin of cellulose paint supplied through NTG (MG specialists) and it is un-usable. I guess it has just "gone off". I had a similar problem with some paint that I had let get exposed to frost. Perhaps that is what has happened here; I don't know.
The supplier will arrange for another tin to be delivered so I suppose I can't complain. | I have had cellulose paint that’s 10 years old and is ok, possibly it’s the amount of air in the tin?
Dave |
As it happens, there was a sharp dent to the lid.. so how air light it is might be questionable? |
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 825 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2023 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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Finally, the wheel cylinders have arrived. Into the garage in the morning! _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 825 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Fri Jul 14, 2023 10:01 am Post subject: |
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Volvo still off the road. I have decided to undertake a series of other jobs on the car, including two new rear shock absorbers (previous ones had developed a creak) and some minor bodywork tidying. The problem is that I have to turf the other car out of the garage to make workspace and locally the weather has been somewhat erratic, a couple of hours sunshine followed by torrential rain, and so being unwilling to leave a car out in the pouring rain for hours on end, there have only been odd days when it has been feasible to carry on. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 825 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Sun May 19, 2024 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Over the last twelve months, the Volvo paintwork had been showing signs of wear and tear. There were a couple of patches of microblistering on old repairs which had also faded to a different shade of blue over certain areas and the (assumed) original paint areas had weathered and faded and in some areas had developed light coloured stains. So, it looked okay from a few metres away, and on photographs, but not closer at hand. This, plus the fact that the wing piping was perished and there were a few bits of rust appearing along the seams, was leading me to think that at the very least I should unbolt the rear wings, and see what was happening .
I have given up on spray painting, too much mess, too much risk of making a poor finish, etc., so I took the car to a local restorer in Mawdesley and had a chat about a respray, suggesting that I would strip all the chrome, etc. off the car and let him do the business.
he was about to move premises, so this didn't happen until just after Easter. It rapidly became clear that the car had received more than one respray, and fearing that another coat of paint would cause the original layers to lift, we came to the conclusion that it should be bare metalled, with the possible exception of the front cowl.
The wings were removed, which revealed, as I suspected that it would, several areas in need of welding around the rear inner arches. Fortunately the cills and main tub were in good condition, and removing the windows revealed just a couple of minor bits that needed brazing up.
Wings, bonnet and boot went away for a heat strip and have come back epoxy coated both sides. The rest of the car has also been heat stripped and at the time of writing is sitting in an initial coat of two pack primer awaiting stoppering and final prep for a final coat of two pack high build and then colour. Inside the wings will be coated with a bed liner material which is the current preference to either underseal or stonechip. So, a more elaborate (and more expensive) process than anticipated, but I should end up with a car that will probably now outlive me in bodywork terms.
There are probably another three weeks or thereabouts to go before I get it back, and then another couple of weeks reassembling it, and incorporating a few improvements such as LED headlights and rearlights and possibly reupholstering the front seats to match the rear, although that can probably wait a while. All together with new rubber stoneguards to rear wings, boot lid seals, wing piping, mudflaps, etc.
My main objective will be to get the car back on the road again, but it will probably be well into July by the time that happens..
A few interesting discoveries (a bit like an archaeological dig, stripping a car down to bare metal). At some point in its life the roof has been painted a dark blue, over the original light blue, and then repainted back in the correct Volvo blue. The driver's door , although not rusty, looked like a relief map of the North York Moors and needed a bit of attention with the dolly before filling and finishing. There was no evidence of this prior to stripdown, thanks to some artful filling by the previous restorer/repairer.
So that's where we are, here follow a few photographs of the car going through the process thus far.
 _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV
Last edited by norustplease on Wed May 22, 2024 10:17 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Rick Site Admin

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22788 Location: UK
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 825 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2024 11:32 am Post subject: |
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Car is currently sat in primer awaiting a last couple of tweaks to the front offside wing to get it to fit properly over the repaired areas, and for a trial fit of the headlight units. Then it is paintwork. Doors have needed a little more attention than anticipated to improve their fit and will probably need some new bottom seals, likewise the rear side windows. Some of the areas where the wing mounting flanges sit, have proved to be rather perforated and have been replaced with new metal and some older repairs inside a rear wheelarch have been redone.
The two pack paint system is advised to be left for a couple of weeks between primer and topcoat, to harden and then again a couple of weeks more when finally painted, to ensure that it is fully hardened off before I start fitting the body out again. So I am still guessing late July at the earliest before I get it back. Then probably a couple of weeks to reassemble. The whole thing has taken longer than anticipated, being fitted in around smaller jobs in the workshop (by agreement) and the restorer's holidays. There is now a nice 50's drophead Bentley in the queue behind me, all welding done, but lots of cosmetic and paintwork required, so I think that the Volvo's progress will now be accelerated since there isn't the space for two major projects running side by side..
Interesting final primer, appears to be a high build system with a built in guide coat. It looks solid pink when sprayed on and then the final sanding goes down to the base primer colour, which is a lighter version of the top coat, and shows any low spots. Different to the old way of doing things with a fine dry blow of black paint misted on and then rubbed off.
Of course all of this is coming at a price, since it also includes a bit of remedial welding and brazing revealed by the bare metalling process, but a lot of this is beyond my capabilities these days, or at least would take me three times as long with the likelihood that the end product would not stand the level of close inspection that a professional would achieve.
I justify this on the grounds that the car is a keeper, and needs to outlive me, ideally, even though the process is probably costing more than the car's actual market value.
However, that's where we are with most everyday classics these days. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7128 Location: Derby
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Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2024 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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I like what you are doing. As you say, "it's a keeper", so the eventual cost has less of a commercial impact.
You could also look at it from the viewpoint that the project will likely bring you satisfaction like little else can.
Other people spend a fortune playing golf. You have the advantage that you will at least have something to show for it!
Each to their own I suppose, but at least you won't see the depreciation of a new car.  |
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 825 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Sat Aug 17, 2024 8:47 am Post subject: |
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So here we are a few weeks ago, going home with a fresh coat of paint, thanks to a friend with a Discovery and another friend with a large transporter trailer.
It has taken quite a while and a few bits and pieces here and there have been renewed and repaired en route. The car is now being refitted (by me) with its bumpers, lights and other trim and is also being treated to some additional rust proofing, in addition to the coloured bedliner that now coats the insides of the wings and bonnet and boot lids.
Progress has been a bit slow due to annual holidays, and a wait for a few odds and ends like new trim clips, various rubber mouldings, etc. We should be back on the road by the end of the month. Longer term, will be reupholstery on the inside, to make sure that front and rear seats match and possibly some new door cards, although I am in renovation mode at the moment. We will see how successful that is, although my main ambition is to get the car usable again.
Bare metalling was interesting. A bit like an archaeological dig. Why the car was ever painted dark blue is a mystery. The code on the body plate shows that the light blue is the factory colour and clearly someone sought to get it back to that. It also explains the odd blemish on the internal metal, which would not have been acceptable from the factory. No real shocks, the cills and other structural areas were all rust free, the main issues were with the mounting flanges that allow the wings to be bolted into place, these were fairly easily repaired, although this did string out the timescale somewhat. One of the issues was that the car had been liberally coated with Waxoil, both by myself and others, so some fairly rigorous cleaning was required in areas that were either in need of local welding (eg: one of the door bottoms,) or were to receive paint.
More pictures as the refit continues. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 825 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Mon Oct 07, 2024 12:09 am Post subject: |
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Did i say back on the road by late August? Ahem! More or less back in one piece again now, but still a few gremlins to sort out. There was a short in the rear foglamp circuit which fried the switch, so this needs sorting out. I haven't got the brake lights to work properly yet, the switch is hydraulic and obviously has problems, since the lights work when I short out the switch with a jumper lead. I have ordered a kit from the US to make this a mechanical switch. Not sure how this will work at the moment since the pedals on the Volvo are not pendant, but telescope out of the footwell. The kit gets good reviews so it will be interesting to see exactly how it works. Mechanical switches have the advantage of a quicker response time, triggering as soon as the pedal is touched. Older systems can need some heavy footwork on the pedal to light up the tail lights, increasing the risk of getting tail ended. I think that most modern cars use some kind of electro mechanical sensor now.
I have fitted LED headlights to replace the rather misty sealed beam units, also upgraded the rearlights to LED. The car has been treated to new number plates, the old ones starting to fall to pieces. We have fitted new door catches which I have had on the shelf for several years now, and of course all the external rubber seals, etc. have been replaced.
I also want to fit a temperature gauge. The one in the dash has always been u/s, so I am accumulating the bits. Why don't I repair the existing one? Well it involves removing all the dash instruments and probably the steering wheel, or various inverted acrobatics/contortions under the dash trying to get it out. The original gauge works on a capillary filled with some kind of gas, which is an impossible repair, the only other possibility is a kit from a Dutch enthusiast that converts it to electric.
The final thing that I hadn't thought of was that the car was factory cavity injected with some kind of rust inhibitor and there were plugs visible along the cills and in other places. These were removed and theoretically put to one side during respray strip down. You guessed it, they have vanished! So I need a further source of those before everything fills up with water. on the car's first wet drive.
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It also needs a service, new oil/filter, plugs, fresh antifreeze, etc. So probably a few weeks yet before it is road ready and by then of course, driving days may be limited by salt, etc. The best laid plans.....!
Not a brilliant photo, but shows car with all its external trim back in place and looking very shiny, in sharp contrast to my untidy garage! _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1957 Austin A55 Mk 1
Boring Tucson SUV |
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