Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[ukdave2002]

I did a bit of woodworking over the weekend and used some Linseed Oil, the smell took me back to my Dads garage, I think he used to wipe all his tools down with Linseed Oil to protect them?

I may be imagining this ! or is it a known way to prevent rust?

Dave

[V8 Nutter]

With the current trend for the "Patina" look apparently boiled linseed oil is the way to stop rust spreading.

[BigJohn]

[Bitumen Boy]

I believe linseed oil was more for the wooden parts of the tools, particularly when planes had wooden bodies as a matter of course. The metal parts tend to be protected by the oil used to lubricate the sharpening stone, which is one reason it's good practice to sharpen your tools before putting them away. An oily rag is, of course, a vital accessory to the oilstone to wipe up the inevitable surplus...

[Penman]

Don't use THAT oily rag for your oily rag bodywork, it is probably loaded with carborundum dust
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Bristols should always come in pairs.

Any 2 from:-
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V8 V10

[Bitumen Boy]

[Vintage Fly Guy]

A 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil (no need to boil it, buy it ready boiled) and white spirit is sometimes used by vintage agricultural machinery and stationary engine restorers to preserve and bring out the colour of well worn/oxidised original paintwork on 'oily rag' type restorations. It also seeps well into surface rust, forming a barrier with the air, stopping/slowing the corrosion process. Apply lightly though, as a little goes a long way.

However, there are a couple of downsides to using the boiled linseed oil treatment;

Firstly it takes a couple of weeks or so for two light coats to dry and stop being sticky (so don't apply it if there are lots of small flies around!)

Secondly, a word of warning; cloths or rags that have been covered in linseed oil have been known to spontaneously combust and burst into flames a few hours afterwards!

So if you want to avoid burning down your garage/workshop/house, then safely burn any contaminated rags or cloths outdoors immediately after use, and don't forget about them and leave them scrunched up on the work bench or chuck them in the bin in case they start smouldering and/or burst into flames. I also dispose of any brushes I've used to apply linseed oil to be on the safe side too.

Please note, this is not an old wives tale, it's a very real danger; I once knew a joiner who told me that he nearly burned someone's new kitchen down as he forgot to safely dispose of a linseed oil soaked rag, and had left it on the sink before going home! Fortunately, it had just smouldered rather than bursting into flames, but had covered the room in a sooty film by morning! So do be careful if using the stuff.

[bjacko]

I use a product called Black Chrome Polish to do black plastic bumpers etc.
Works very well and lasts a long time even in our sunshine.
Some people used to use 3 in 1 oil to protect chrome and metal.
In England I used to use a reddish lanolin liquid on my chrome during winter to protect against the salt etc on the roads.
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1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP

[peter scott]

I've been using boiled linseed oil for years on my old car and also my old television. It really brings out the figuring of the wood on old French polished items.



Peter
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https://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Rick]

I did the old pickup with boiled linseed oil just the other day, a very thin coat of which dried after 2-3 days or so in the warm garage.

RJ
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[alastairq]

Does it go sticky again in very warm weather?
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Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces.

[peter scott]

No, it hardens with time. It doesn't take long to just have the feel of the original.

Peter
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https://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon

[Bitumen Boy]