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bjacko
Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 527
Location: Melbourne Australia
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 Posted: Fri Aug 09, 2024 7:30 am Post subject: Morris 25 Engines |
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I would suggest that the CS8 engines were made by Morris Engines to the Morris Commercial requirements. In October 1937 the 25 car engine became an overhead valve engine as did the other Morris cars except the 8 which continued as a side valve. They were called 1938 models.
Morris Commercial was a separate division of Morris as was Morris Engines.
I wouldn't mind a copy of the Cs8 appendix with the list of hardware as mentioned above.
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1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP |
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Standard56
Joined: 26 Jun 2024
Posts: 146
Location: Victoria, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2024 12:15 pm Post subject: CS8 book |
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Standard56
Joined: 26 Jun 2024
Posts: 146
Location: Victoria, Australia
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| Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2024 12:27 pm Post subject: cs8...book |
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bjacko
Joined: 28 Oct 2013
Posts: 527
Location: Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Mon Aug 12, 2024 7:50 am Post subject: Morris CS8 Parts List |
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Thank you for the pictures. Interesting to see they do not use the Morris codes.
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1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP |
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Standard56
Joined: 26 Jun 2024
Posts: 146
Location: Victoria, Australia
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| Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2024 10:08 am Post subject: Re: Morris CS8 Parts List |
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| bjacko wrote: | | Thank you for the pictures. Interesting to see they do not use the Morris codes. |
The CS8 hardware part numbers may be Ministry of Supply numbers.
Some of these weird fasteners are not easily available ... if I can manage it, I sometimes make my own special sized bolts on a lathe. My machining skills are at the basic level.
As I could not find new valve guides for this engine , I had a attempt at making some, I purchased a length of the correct grade of cast-iron. A learning experience it was ! |
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Standard56
Joined: 26 Jun 2024
Posts: 146
Location: Victoria, Australia
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| Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2024 10:55 am Post subject: Guides |
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I am not a trained machinist, I usually mess up this type of job !
I made these valve guides for the Morris 25 engine on my little lathe. The correct grade and diam. of cast iron was found and it was cut down into short blanks. The O.D. of the worn out original guides is a unusual dimension: .531" The valve stems are 3/8" Actually, the new valves I have measure up as being .3735".
The blank or stock was held in a 4 jaw chuck and adjusted for nil runout . I used a undersized 2 flute milling cutter held in the tailstock and began the boring process from each end of the blank. Jobber or twist Drills are not ideal for this type of work, they tend to wander around if they are not exactly on centre. I find that the the short milling cutters are stout and they will remain within dimensional tolerance
After boring each end to a undersize , I then ran a undersized drill down the blank . I then used a adjustable reamer which is aligned by the tailstock to bring the bore up to close to 3/8".
The guides sit tightly on the valve stems . To achieve concentricity, the valves themselves are held in a chuck and they are used as a mandrel, the guides are machined to their final O.D.
Hope this works out !
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7140
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2024 11:17 am Post subject: |
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| I would suggest that you don't want the valves to be too tight or they will stick when the engine gets hot. |
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Standard56
Joined: 26 Jun 2024
Posts: 146
Location: Victoria, Australia
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| Posted: Mon Aug 19, 2024 1:16 pm Post subject: yes |
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| Ray White wrote: | | I would suggest that you don't want the valves to be too tight or they will stick when the engine gets hot. |
Yes, that is something that needs to be taken into account. I am aiming for around .002" stem clearance in the exhaust guides. The engine rebuilders of years past, they used to ream the guides to final size after the guides were fitted into the engine block. |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7140
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2024 12:01 pm Post subject: Re: yes |
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| Standard56 wrote: | | Ray White wrote: | | I would suggest that you don't want the valves to be too tight or they will stick when the engine gets hot. |
Yes, that is something that needs to be taken into account. I am aiming for around .002" stem clearance in the exhaust guides. The engine rebuilders of years past, they used to ream the guides to final size after the guides were fitted into the engine block. |
I had to ream the guides in my '26 Dodge Brothers engine...but not until I had learned the hard way; with the engine stumbling and running rough just after I had rebuilt it!
I expect the absence of guide seals in old engines would have been one reason why they used more oil. |
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