Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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| Do you like or dislike the new dashboard ? |
| Yes I do like the new dashboard |
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[ 7 ] |
| No I do not like the new dashboard |
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| Total Votes : 7 |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7318 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2026 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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With the hood finished I thought I would try and tackle the side screens. Having offered them up it soon became apparent that it will take a fair bit of time fiddling about to get an acceptable fit.
I have read the fitting instructions on line but there is no getting away from the fact that these cars were built down to a price with the side screens being a rather cheap and cheerful answer to weather protection.
For example; with the hood up, closing the door will leave the top edge of the side screen on the "outside" of the hood; thus channelling any rain into the car. The solution given is for "someone with long arms" to reach out and up from within the car and tuck the top edge under the hood. .......Hmmmm.
Having decided to put that job to one side, I opted to check the wheel alignment using my "Trackrite" gauge. With the MG Midget being such a light car, this is an easy job.
It seems my off side wheel has excessive toe in.
I am happy that up to 1/2" toe in will not cause excessive tire wear; what is more important is that they are both equal. |
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norustplease

Joined: 11 Apr 2011 Posts: 833 Location: Lancashire
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Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2026 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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You won't use it in the rain anyway, surely. _________________ 1953 Citroen Traction
1964 Volvo PV544
1973 VW Beetle 1303L
Boring Suzuki SX Hybrid |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7318 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2026 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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| norustplease wrote: | | You won't use it in the rain anyway, surely. |
You make a good point...and one which I keep telling myself...but I want this car to be as usable as I can make it. |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7318 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2026 7:46 pm Post subject: |
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Followers of this thread will recall how the new driver's door handle mechanism fell to pieces. I thought I had fixed it but the same thing has happened again.
I needed to find a way of keeping the mechanism together and on looking through my bits and pieces I came across an old copper HT lead terminal. I squashed it in the vice and cut it to length. The hole lined up with a small peg on the lock body and the copper acts as a distance piece but also keeps pressure on the lever; ensuring that it stays in position.
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The motto of the story is "never throw anything away".  |
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bjacko
Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Posts: 551 Location: Melbourne Australia
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Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2026 5:04 am Post subject: Toe In |
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1/2" seems excessive. My Morris is only 1/8". _________________ 1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7318 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2026 9:54 am Post subject: Re: Toe In |
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| bjacko wrote: | | 1/2" seems excessive. My Morris is only 1/8". |
Yes it is huge. I was sceptical but there has been endless debate on MG forums and 1/2" toe in is what they all have concluded... which basically led me to purchase the "Trackrite" D.I.Y. gauge.
The first thing is have to do is set the toe in to concur with what is correct according to the Trackrite gauge... and see how she drives.
There is a tendency for these cars to wander badly... but that should not be a problem with mine as I have converted the steering to a VW based system (a popular upgrade) and have new drop arm and track rod ends. I have also fitted a Panhard rod to properly locate the front axle.
When you add this to new king pins and bushes, new hubs with taper roller bearings and refurbished springs and dampers with poly bushes throughout...and brand new wheels and tyres; I would hope to have done enough to prevent any tendency to wander.
Of course, I may be disappointed with the "Wayfarer" cross ply tyres but when I bought them radials were not available in a suitable size; they are now. |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7318 Location: Derby
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2026 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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I sometimes think the problems with this car are never ending. When I had the engine up to working temperature I noticed steam coming out of the top of the radiator; through the slats.
I can find no specific leaks but just a relatively small but noticeable quantity of water vapour coming out the front at the top of the radiator slats.
I have always eschewed the likes of Holts Radweld and Bar's Leaks but have heard good things about Kalimex K- Seal. Apparently, it works effectively but does not clog up the system...so I have ordered a bottle.!
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bjacko
Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Posts: 551 Location: Melbourne Australia
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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2026 6:59 am Post subject: Cooling System Leak stoppers |
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I have always regarded those products as requirements for old worn engines not for reconditioned engines. I didn't take any chances with my radiator. As far as I know it was not leaking when I got the car, but as a precaution I had it re-cored. They used modern core material so it gives better circulation. _________________ 1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7318 Location: Derby
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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2026 10:04 am Post subject: Re: Cooling System Leak stoppers |
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| bjacko wrote: | | I have always regarded those products as requirements for old worn engines not for reconditioned engines. I didn't take any chances with my radiator. As far as I know it was not leaking when I got the car, but as a precaution I had it re-cored. They used modern core material so it gives better circulation. |
From what I have learned, the trick is to know what effect - other than sealing a leak - the product one uses has on the cooling system. So long as it doesn't clog up cooling passages then I have nothing to loose. If I need to have the radiator re - cored then that would be the worst case scenario. |
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peter scott

Joined: 18 Dec 2007 Posts: 7223 Location: Edinburgh
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Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2026 6:51 pm Post subject: Re: Toe In |
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| Ray White wrote: |
There is a tendency for these cars to wander badly... |
With my friend's MG SA it definitely wanted to go everywhere but straight ahead. We solved it by increasing the castor angle and it then became a much nicer car to drive.
Peter _________________ https://www.nostalgiatech.co.uk
1939 SS Jaguar 2 1/2 litre saloon |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7318 Location: Derby
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Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2026 8:38 pm Post subject: Re: Toe In |
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| peter scott wrote: | | Ray White wrote: |
There is a tendency for these cars to wander badly... |
With my friend's MG SA it definitely wanted to go everywhere but straight ahead. We solved it by increasing the castor angle and it then became a much nicer car to drive.
Peter |
Yes, Peter. Despite what I have already done, increasing the castor angle will be necessary. Not only should this help eliminate wander but also ensure that the steering properly self centres.
It would seem the TC should have taper plates (or wedges) under the front axle. For some reason (unknown to me) they are not present on my car.
The reason why the TC needs extra help in this area is historical. The T series front axle has an inherent castor angle of 3 degrees. This was originally augmented by a further 3 degrees slope of the front springs.
On the TA and TB cars, 6 degrees of castor angle was fine ...but when the TC was introduced, the rear trunnions were exchanged for shackles. This had the effect of giving the front springs 5 degrees of castor angle; giving a total of 8 degrees in total.
To correct this, TC s were fitted with 2.5 degree taper plates (wedges).
These are available from Octagon Club Spares, so I shall be ordering some.
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bjacko
Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Posts: 551 Location: Melbourne Australia
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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2026 7:22 am Post subject: Castor Wedges |
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A lot of Morris cars have castor wedges with some having the thin to the front and some having the thin end to the rear. I found the wedges on my car fitted the wrong way and changed them to the right way. I never noticed any difference when driving!
Measuring toe in is often not done correctly. It must be done against the wheel rim (NOT the tyre) on a wheel that is not buckled at four points around the wheel and the car rolled backwards and forwards, so the wheels do a minimum of one revolution, after any adjustment before rechecking as before. _________________ 1938 Morris 8 Ser II Coupe Utility (Pickup)
1985 Rover SD1 VDP |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 2149 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2026 11:27 am Post subject: |
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Three decades ago, when I was building up my Cannon trials car[ultimately registered for road use....sadly on a Q plate]...it had a Ford Y type front axle, with pre war Morris Minor brakes, and even, what turned out to be very early Colin Chapman steering arms[sorting the inherent Ford weakness].
At the same time, the bus company I worked for, was changing their tyre contract..[although the depot fitter was retained, simply getting new overalls!]...He was to chuck out all the old tools he used for the buses, to be replaced by the new contractor's tools....so I got a set of tracking tools for a bus...for free.....I think they were Dunlop, but not too sure...anyway, they weren't in pristine condition, but could be worked with. The actual gauge was definitely in imperial measurements...so I tried out 1/4'' toe in.....Steering was transformed [especially after my fitter pal and I borrowed the oxy to straighten the axle beam!].....I still have the bits[for both]....the two uprights, which clamped to a 10 foot long shaped pole.....!!! A spring loaded gauge on one of them.
The only problems I've had using the tool was, storage! A 10 foot pole isn't easily hidden, and I am reluctant to cut it down to size, as one never knows when one is going to need to track a double deck bus in the future?? _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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Ray White

Joined: 02 Dec 2014 Posts: 7318 Location: Derby
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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2026 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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| alastairq wrote: | Three decades ago, when I was building up my Cannon trials car[ultimately registered for road use....sadly on a Q plate]
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Alastair. On that point...do you know if it would be possible for a vehicle with a Q plate to be re registered with a personalised number? Or is it stuck with the Q plate for ever? |
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alastairq
Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Posts: 2149 Location: East Yorkshire
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Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2026 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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Alastair. On that point...do you know if it would be possible for a vehicle with a Q plate to be re registered with a personalised number? Or is it stuck with the Q plate for ever? |
As far as I know, the Q plate isn't changeable.
[Vehicle of indeterminate origin]..My CAnnon got one because the front axle was Ford/Morris, the engine was MG, the rear axle used to be Austin 8/10, but I changed it to Suzuki, and the frame was Cannon...steering also pre WW2, unknown, but it worked ok....So no individual 'units' came from the same vehicle..or type of vehicle. Back in the late '50's & early '60's, one could simply register such a vehicle for road use....Prior to 1996, it needed inspecting, etc etc...a chassis number had to be issued, and an in depth MoT obtained before even the registration plate was allocated. I got the Cannon registered in 1996, just before the rules changed yet again...and SVA was introduced [which the Cannon would have struggled to acquire]
Crikey, I even had to fit seatbelts [mini...all I had in stock at the time]....hazards, etc....
Then on my trialling passengers request, I fitted a windscreen, so needed a wiper and washer. Courtesy of VW polo rear window.
The windscreen started life as the casing for a bus time table.
Adding the stripped parts from one of those rotating washing dryer contraptions....helicopter thingy one stuck in one's back garden.
Ever the titewad, me.....even the body panelling was cut from the huge bus company sign that was once above the main doors of my depot...
All done on my back lawn, using paper patterns, like a knitting pattern. Sadly, zero surplus left. It was a tite draw, really.[/quote] _________________ Dellow Mk2, 1951 built, reg 1952.
Fiat 126 BIS
Cannon special [1996 registered. Built in 1950's]
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Ford Pop chassis, Ashley 1172 bodyshell, in pieces. |
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