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| Do you like or dislike the new dashboard ? |
| Yes I do like the new dashboard |
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100% |
[ 7 ] |
| No I do not like the new dashboard |
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0% |
[ 0 ] |
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| Total Votes : 7 |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4398
Location: South Cheshire
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 Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2026 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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The track rod ends on the Morris 8 and Series E are Admiralty threads  |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7647
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2026 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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| ukdave2002 wrote: | | The track rod ends on the Morris 8 and Series E are Admiralty threads |
Ah yes. I remember. 5/8" 20 tip.
My Dad had a different word for them....  |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4398
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2026 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Ray White wrote: | | ukdave2002 wrote: | | The track rod ends on the Morris 8 and Series E are Admiralty threads |
Ah yes. I remember. 5/8" 20 tip.
My Dad had a different word for them.... |
I also have a different word for them 
We have about 100 brand new pairs of them that are only good for scrap because although we gave specific details of the thread, the manufacturer decided to put a "more conventional " thread on!
To fix this they then reworked the track rod ends by squeezing them in a hydraulic press and re threaded them, the result was a horrible looking threads, that were too loose for something that is critical for the steering, not something you would even give away! |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7647
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2026 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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| ukdave2002 wrote: | | Ray White wrote: | | ukdave2002 wrote: | | The track rod ends on the Morris 8 and Series E are Admiralty threads |
Ah yes. I remember. 5/8" 20 tip.
My Dad had a different word for them.... |
I also have a different word for them
We have about 100 brand new pairs of them that are only good for scrap because although we gave specific details of the thread, the manufacturer decided to put a "more conventional " thread on!
To fix this they then reworked the track rod ends by squeezing them in a hydraulic press and re threaded them, the result was a horrible looking threads, that were too loose for something that is critical for the steering, not something you would even give away! |
I recall you posting about these some time ago but I hadn't realised just what they had done.
I sometimes despair; I really do.
Why didn't they just say they couldn't do it and decline the order? |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4398
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2026 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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| Ray White wrote: | | Why didn't they just say they couldn't do it and decline the order? |
The irony is that they were more than capable, everything thing else about the TREs was perfect, the threads were CNC cut, so any variation of pitch, diameter and angle is possible, however you sometimes just have to draw the line and move on. |
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badhuis
Joined: 20 Aug 2008
Posts: 1504
Location: Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2026 10:36 am Post subject: |
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| Ray White wrote: | | IT may just be me but my favourite thread is BSF. It's not a really fine thread but it is course enough to hold a reasonable torque. |
I love the fact that you have a "favourite thread" 
_________________
a car stops being fun when it becomes an investment |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7647
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2026 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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| badhuis wrote: | | Ray White wrote: | | IT may just be me but my favourite thread is BSF. It's not a really fine thread but it is course enough to hold a reasonable torque. |
I love the fact that you have a "favourite thread" |
That's just how I am. I should have been an engineer but somehow it didn't happen.  |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7647
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2026 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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A new problem has arisen; not suddenly but one which may have been there from the start. I had noticed how the back of the car seemed to be rather low to the ground ...but as the rear wheels sat nicely in their respective openings and the rear springs were new I thought little more about it.
That changed this afternoon when a good friend of mine remarked about how the exhaust pipe was very low and might get caught on speed humps, etc. He had a point and on further investigation it would appear that the specified ground clearance for the TC was 6". There is a 5" clearance from the underside of the spring hangers, the number plate/ rear lights assembly and the spare wheel. The exhaust pipe, however, had just 3 1/2 "clearance...on other cars it is 6" so almost half the ground clearance.
I may not be able to do anything about the 1" difference between the specified clearance and the reality of my car, but the tail pipe is a different matter. I can see it will need to be altered and re - routed; something that from experience is easier said than done.
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Keith D
Joined: 16 Oct 2008
Posts: 1197
Location: Upper Swan, Western Australia
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| Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2026 10:58 am Post subject: |
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Blocks between rear springs and the rear axle???? You'll need longer 'U' bolts.
This proved very successful on my Chrysler twenty years ago.
Keith
_________________
1926 Chrysler 60 tourer (100 years old! - a genuine antique!)
1950 Austin A40 tourer
1999 BMW Z3
Its weird being the same age as old people.
You are either part of the problem or part of the solution |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7647
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2026 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Keith D wrote: | Blocks between rear springs and the rear axle???? You'll need longer 'U' bolts.
This proved very successful on my Chrysler twenty years ago.
Keith |
I am afraid it is not quite as simple as that. There are no 'U' bolts. The chassis runs under the rear axle and the springs are bolted onto two "towers" in the middle and pivot courtesy of shackles at either end.
My plan is to focus on the rear leaf springs. I don't know if it will help or not but I am thinking of replacing the main leaf with one having a slightly reduced radius.
I shall need to take advice on this. 
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Last edited by Ray White on Fri Aug 21, 2026 10:14 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7647
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2026 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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Further examination has revealed that the rear springs are not right. I bought a pair of new springs at the outset of the restoration. If my memory serves me right, I was told by the supplier that genuine TC springs were no longer available but that they had some the same size that should fit O.K. That is what I have fitted. They are obviously not up to the job.
The correct specification leaf springs have fewer leaves but they are individually thicker. I have one of the original springs which I kept as a spare.
(The other was incomplete ...and to date I have not been able to find it!)
It seems I shall have to buy another new pair of springs. It looks like they may be available but the date range given is 1946 - 1948... but my car is 1949...so I am hoping they are right. This is something I will have to discuss with the manufacturer/supplier.
I am, of course, hoping that the right springs will correct the ride height........
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4398
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2026 6:04 am Post subject: |
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It may well be worth chatting to Jones springs, they have a mass of data for our era of car, and can also make bespoke.
https://tinyurl.com/Jones-Springs |
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7647
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2026 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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| ukdave2002 wrote: | It may well be worth chatting to Jones springs, they have a mass of data for our era of car, and can also make bespoke.
https://tinyurl.com/Jones-Springs |
Yes indeed. In fact I have already spoken to Jones springs who have confirmed that those currently fitted may well be their springs! They appear to be correct specification (according to the 'Blower' MG manual) ... the only difference from the original is that they can no longer source the 7/32" material... so they have substituted with 3/16" thickness for seven of the 9 leaves. Perhaps that is where the problem lies?
The two remaining leaves measure 1/4" as original.
I have tried bouncing the back of the car - as the guy at Jones Springs suggested - and have gained a little extra height.! The clearance to the tail pipe (with tyres fully inflated) is now 4 1/4".!
If I could re direct the exhaust to the side of the number plate (instead of under it) I should gain a little more.
Another idea that I have had would to be to insert steel wedges under the main leaves where there appears to be a gap. That might add a little more to the ground clearance?
Alternatively, rather than wedges, I am also experimenting with better fitting rollers. The ones that came with the springs are a very sloppy fit. I have sourced some thick walled tubing that more snugly accepts the bolts and by pressing those tubes into some larger diameter tubing (cut down to the same length) I am able to take up a fair amount of the slop between the leaves. Obviously, there needs to be a clearance but only enough to allow the leaves to slide.
I did much the same when I refurbished the front springs but had hoped it wouldn't be necessary with new rear springs. No such luck!
Little by little I may be able to work round the problem without resorting to buying new springs; indeed, if they are no better than what I already have, there seems little point!
This is all experimental stuff to me so I will not be making any predictions.
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Ray White
Joined: 02 Dec 2014
Posts: 7647
Location: Derby
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| Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2026 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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So far - by taking out the slop in the rollers - I have gained another 1/8" clearance. The measurement to the tail pipe is now 4 5/8".
Slowly going in the right direction. |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4398
Location: South Cheshire
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| Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2026 7:56 am Post subject: |
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Are the tyres at the correct pressure?
Daft question I know!.. |
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