Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Old-Nail]

And that was exactly my point to him... he was happy to charge a whopping difference but when it came down to it there wasn't the amount of care gone into the job to warrant that difference.
It's funny that much of the forum over at 2cvGB won't speak to me now...it's like sheep shunning a vegetarian in favour of the butcher! The older i get, the harder I find it to understand folk!

[Uncle Joe]

You know the old saying from our part of the world. Theres nowt as queer as folk!

One thing you have already learned though. The paint job has to suit the car....

[Old-Nail]

Quick question UJ, Which is the preferred option when using a spray gun gravity or suction?...and why?

[Uncle Joe]

Some will tell you that gravities are more efficient, some will tell you that suctions have a better balance, but in the end, it comes down to personal preference, plain and simple!

I've used a suction feed for years, but my new one is going to be gravity. My reasoning behind this is that I would like a gun that is more efficient, and the best way to get this is by using an HVLP gun. Though they probably exist, I've never heard of a suction HVLP.

The difference in efficiency is reputed to be around 60% waste on a conventional, and 30% on the HVLP...but I'll believe that when I see it (or prove it)!

[Old-Nail]

Does a HVLP use it's own dedicated air source or can it be compressor driven? I think HVLP would perhaps suit my situation better being that I am in quite a cramped environment and very close to my neighbours, the less overspray the better!

[bob2]

sorry if this sounds stupid but what does HVLP stand for?

[Uncle Joe]

O-N, they are available both for use with their own air supply, or a separate compressor. One of the nice things about them is that they only need about 10psi at the cap.

bob2: It stands for High Volume Low Pressure

And if you are all really unlucky, I'll post a photo of the left front wing of my modern that I painted....if its permissible. I dont really like to see moderns on here though!

[Old-Nail]

Well that's good news both ways then as my compressor has only a small tank capacity but would no doubt cope with the HVLP gun, go on UJ post your picture and explain the process to get the finished result.
I think we're discussing paint refinishing here so it matters not what it's on.

[Uncle Joe]

Here we go then. Remember I'm only describing the visible surfaces, nothing else. Hidden surfaces were similar, but not as involved.



I knew that there were three possible problems. First, I didnt know it the wing was zintek or similar. Second, I didnt know what primer was on the wing, and third, the colour was a coarse metallic. I used my favourite PPG paint.

First job was to sand the wing to bare metal, using my DA sander, first 36 grit, then 80. Then, I skim filled visible damage, and sanded this off using ''blocks'' and 240 grit. When I was happy with the surface, it was etch primed.

Two coats of primer filler followed, and then a third light coat of black primer. This was block sanded. I was lucky in the fact that I couldnt see any imperfections at this stage, so a third coat of primer filler was added, and this was then block sanded again using240, then 400, then 600 wet and dry.

Next up was the coat of primer sealer. This is a non-porous layer, so it stops moisture going through the paint.

Everything still appeared OK, so it was on with the base coat. Coarse metallics cant be filtered, so I was really nervous here. It went on OK, then a final coat was added. I made a little mistake here. I should have added an extra ''dust coat'' to get a better colour match. If you look at the picture, you will see that it is a slightly different shade to the rest of the car. Not really noticable, unless you know it is there.

Finally, I added the clear coats.

To get the polish, first it was wet and dry, 1200 grit. Then our version of T-cut, and finally, a polish.

First wax wasnt done until around Christmas.

And that was it!

[Old-Nail]

Have you posted the correct picture? I thought you said it was the left front wing you painted?...I'm not sure what I'm looking at here

[Uncle Joe]

Yes, I did post the wrong picture initially, so I had to change it quickly. Should be OK now though...

[bob2]

its a very nice job UJ

[Old-Nail]

Two things of interest arise from your post UJ, firstly the use of a primer sealer which in all the stuff I've read up on the subject no-one seems to mention.
Secondly, the use of 240 400 600 flatting to the same primer stage. That's something I hadn't understood before, I was thinking they meant flat each successive primer layer down with a finer paper not use three types on the same layer!
It's these little things that arise in conversation that help us understand the process better than simply reading a book.

[Uncle Joe]

bob2: If you take a close look at the photo, you will see that I didnt align everything properly. Can you see the little step indicator moulding to bonnet moulding?

O-N: Think of it a little like sanding down a piece of wood. First the coarser grades, then progressively finer, until you get the surface that is required.

Remember also that there is no right and wrong way really. The only thing that can be said is that the way I did this job is basically correct, but other people would have small variations.

[bob2]

Yeah UJ now u've said it I did notice that it wasn't matching with the bonnet.
With regards to sanding I always use that method in order to take the scratches caused by the previous grade sand paper, ie with the 400 u clear the 220s scratches and so on (though i use 320 in between also)!!
Thats the same procedure i use when polishing alloy also using generally till 1200 and then polishing it up with a small buffer and autosol.
At the moment I am restoring an old door and have done sanding during the weekend and put some stain on now, will have to give a basecoat and then sand the lot with 320, thats the finest I use with wood and you obtain almost a mirror finish but with metal I like to use up to 600 grit and as already mentioned with alloy up to 1200 grit (it does come out very shiny almost like chrome but the downside is that you need to polish it up at least once a month in order for it to stay shiny)