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Home Made Rust Converter
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Scotty



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 883

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very impressive! Cool
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1879
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To think all these years I have been wasting Black Treacle by spreading it on bread, while desireable artifacts in the garage lay rusting in the corner.
While my (Dutch) mother used the mix it with pork dripping to make a "yummy" spread for teatimes.
Tate and Lyle should really send you a barrel of the stuff UKD; you have probably 'at a stroke' quadrupled sales for them. Great. Laughing Laughing
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Kaybee



Joined: 27 Dec 2007
Posts: 147
Location: Croydon, Victoria, Australia

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all, I've been using the Molasses treatment for around 20 years and can vouch for it's effectiveness. I have a purpose built lidded steel tank 8x4x2ft deep and it's filled to about 3" from the top with water into which goes a 20 litre tub of Molasses. Cost is around $20 from Feed n' grain stores. I used to use 2 tubs originally,but it doesn't seem to make the process any quicker than using one, so the ratio doesn't appear too critical. Light rust comes off in around a week, heavy pitted surfaces obviously take a while longer. I generally toss stuff in for 2-3 weeks,pull it out, give it a rinse with the hose and see how it looks. If it's still a bit scruffy it goes back in for a little longer, if it's clean , it gets a bit more of a rinse and then dry it off as quick as you can, as a light rust film forms on the parts within minutes when they're wet. Sometimes it needs a wipe over with de-oxidine to clean the surface before priming, seems to depend on the climate. I have a heavily rusted pedal car in the tank at the moment which is due to surface soon, so I can put some pics up so you can judge for yourselves. Best thing is the cost...worst thing is the stink, it ferments after a few weeks and it's pretty awful, so you need a lid, also worth warning not to reach in to the mix with your hands to retrieve the bits n'pieces....it won't hurt you, but it will make your body bits smell terrible for a few days and the stink doesn't wash off for quite a while.... Shocked Laughing
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3382
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I had it fermenting, and a nice layer of mold, I also made the mistake of going in up to my shoulders, I reeked for a while, it allso made me look like I had had a bath in a tub of iodine, I was yellow and very sticky! Had to get in the car to come back for a shower, after washing myself in a water butt, and using an undisclosed number of wonder wipes!! hehe

Cheers

Dave
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1879
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have vague memories of being told that 'Trustan' ? a water-based rust converter was made by the Wheatcroft (Harry, of rose fame) company and created from the by-product, compost.
This was back in the seventies when it was used to refurbish machinery.
I remember being told you could drink it safely, but after seeing the indellible stains it left on your hands, nobody tried. Sounds like a similar principle to Treacle? Shocked

Don.
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Old-Nail



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 853

PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the result of the 'Tesco's cola bath' test.
It has worked, although someone with a little more patience than myself (i.e. everyone!) would have better results by leaving it in for longer.



My verdict is that should you have a few small odd bits and bobs that you can afford to throw in a jamjar of cola and forget about for a week or so it's an economical rustbuster, for larger objects like the ones pictured it's not practical.
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1879
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey! I'm impressed, wouldn't normally have the stuff in the house but the garage is different. Shocked
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Kaybee



Joined: 27 Dec 2007
Posts: 147
Location: Croydon, Victoria, Australia

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi , I forgot to mention earlier,Molasses won't remove paint or filler,you have to strip back to bare steel first. Also need to be aware that it doesn't like alloy or die cast items, so be careful what you immerse or you might get caught out. A simple and cheap way to remove paint and grease is to soak them in a bath of caustic soda and water, cheers, Col.
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marknotgeorge



Joined: 25 Nov 2007
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's the phosphoric acid in cola that acts at the rust remover - basically a weak version of Jenolite. That said, Tesco value cola doesn't have sugar in it. I wonder how well supermarket cola (the normal sugary 50p a bottle stuff) compares to Pepsi and Coke?
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Greeney in France



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 1173
Location: Limousin area of France

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used Pepsi with much better results especially in a sealed container
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4240
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phosphoric acid is what body shops use; a quick wipe over before they spray bare steel, I wonder what the concentration is in coke (assuming this is what is doing the business) and then how it compares to buying the acid in a more concentrated form?
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Greeney in France



Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Posts: 1173
Location: Limousin area of France

PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

God now its getting complicated
Chemicals are hard to get because of terrorism but I can still get things from the local DIY "castorama" like caustic soda, hydrochloric acid and ammonia Laughing
That prompts a question actually WITHOUT using the very expensive plating kits from FROST has anyone tried electro plating nuts and bolts etc?
Like zinc passivating or nickel plating Idea
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Rustynail



Joined: 06 Jul 2008
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 1:18 am    Post subject: rust converter Reply with quote

Hear In Australia truck drivers use coke to degrease there motors it works well pour it over your motor leave a few minutes wash off so imagine what its doing to your guts when you drink it

I have a 44gallon drum of molofort we used to put with straw to feed our cows would that be the same as molasses
Thanks Rustynail
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62rebel



Joined: 03 Dec 2007
Posts: 343
Location: Charleston, South Carolina

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

considering the natural state of acidity in the stomach, i'd wager a pint of Coke isn't changing things much. couple that acidity with a particularly frustrating task and wonder why you need an antacid tab...

i've used cider vinegar for derusting parts, as well as a lye mix; once derusted they will flash rust immediately on contact with air!
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wrinx



Joined: 22 Jun 2008
Posts: 142
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried derusting some allen bolts with diet coke....nothing Rolling Eyes

wrinx
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