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Paint Runs?
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3382
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 6:51 pm    Post subject: Paint Runs? Reply with quote

Hi

How do you get rid of paint runs?

Obviously the answer is to not cause them to start with, but they are there, so how is best to rub them out, without rubbing through the sourounding paint?

Do I rub that area down and paint it again?

Got a few small ones and one ruddy bad one!

Cheers

Dave
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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 1252
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the paint has properly hardened just rub down (on a block) wet with 240 then 360W/D follwoed by 600 then 1200. Polish up with rubbing compound and then T cut etc.

This works on celly,synthetic (coach or 1/2 hour laquer) and 2 pack. If not fully hardened it will pull it off Embarassed
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I have just painted it with 2 pak, so will leave it for a while, and do some reasembly work, them sort it out, how long do oyu leave 2 pak to harden?

The runs are all on curved sections, not flat pannels, bound to be the case isn't it! is it just a matter of rubbing them carefully? Wet or dry?

Cheers

Dave
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Phil - Nottingham



Joined: 01 Jan 2008
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Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give at least a week - must be wet sanded and use rubber block to bend to curved shape to ensure only high spots are removed - do not rush it.

If its a really thick run on 2 pack the pigments can separate so some shading may have to be rectified
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SV8Predator



Joined: 24 Aug 2008
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Location: Further up the creek

PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have bad runs you are on a hiding to nothing trying to block them out. As has been said there will be pigment effects and no matter how careful you are it is highly likely you will rub through to the primer.

Best to flat them all out and paint the panel again. But do make sure you flat them right back or the new paint solvent will lift them again.
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3382
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I fear I will end up painting it again, but will have to try blowing a section in, as the whole pannel, would mean painting the entire things again to be honest, it is a pretty big thing.

Not to worry!

To add to the insult, I went to the paint shop and asked for celly, they said no use 2 pak, it is easier, everything about 2 pak seems harder to me anyway! At least if I need more paint I can take the can with the code on, and they will mix it up, or that is what I thought, but the dosey git hasn't written the code on! So will have to be colour matched again!

I think I will revert to coach painting with an enamel after this!

Will go in the morning, to find what has happened in the day light! Was going dark when I finished today.

Cheers

Dave
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oldgoaly



Joined: 06 Dec 2007
Posts: 28

PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

paint nibs, they are small files that take off the high spots. Not to get to far off subject but my boy primed his 1st panel, I showed him the proper "move your body" not just your arm..... well as most 16 yr.olds would do he made a nice big arc..... so I told him "STOP!" run inside and get the scissors on the table, "hurry!" when he got back I told him "stand there..... when that run gets to the edge cut that sucker off!" Well I still get a chuckle out of that! My 1st couple of paint jobs were real good, then used Ditzler for the 1st time (used dupont before) a scissor came in handy for that job!!!! 1973 on a 65-67 corvair monza metalic blue paint. never forget that! tt
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave, I have a "paint run plane", which you adjust to shave most of the run off, and then compound back in the normal way, it s quick and ensures you just remove the "run"!

Dave
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Comrade-Paul



Joined: 04 Mar 2009
Posts: 79
Location: NORWICH

PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Id go with the run razor too.
Shaves just the raised area (the run) leaving very little to be flatted & polished.
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Cheers, for the ideas, I will look into them, and might get one of the run cutter things, handy to have anyway!

Cheers

Dave
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Gaz



Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 92
Location: Geordie-Land

PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

buzzy bee wrote:
if I need more paint I can take the can with the code on, and they will mix it up, or that is what I thought, but the dosey git hasn't written the code on!


You'll probably find that the tin will have a reference number on it that will be unique to the paint manufacturer. All they will have to do is put the number into the computer and it will print out a formula for your paint. You shouldn't need a colour code.
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SV8Predator



Joined: 24 Aug 2008
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Location: Further up the creek

PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ukdave2002 wrote:
Dave, I have a "paint run plane", which you adjust to shave most of the run off, and then compound back in the normal way, it s quick and ensures you just remove the "run"!

Dave


It will do the job you describe.

But with 2-pack the pigments rise to the wet surface. So after it's been 'shaved' on red (for example) the bright red outside surface will be shaved off leaving a darker (brownish) centre to the runs.

All in all a lot of bother, effort and time when it will be much quicker to repaint the panel, or blow in a section, in this case.
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