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Removing Door Skin
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nqtraderman



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 66
Location: Southport, Merseyside

PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 5:59 pm    Post subject: Removing Door Skin Reply with quote

How do I remove the door skin on a MK3 Spitfire ?

I think its either tack welded or maybe spot welded to the frame around the edge / flange. I want to remove or at least loosen the skin so that I can straighten the door frame and then put the skin back on again.

All I can find on the i*net is people removing the skin with an angle grinder because they are going to fit a new skin. I want to use the same skin.

Any ideas .. I cant see how I can lift the skin flange that's been turned over the frame as there is very little space from the flange to the door frame to get a cold chisel in there ..

any hints and tips appreciated
thanks
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 22790
Location: UK

PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd imagine that re-welding the skin to the frame, if you could get it off without damaging it in the first place, would ruin the paint anyway due to heat ... but I could well be wrong Laughing

RJ
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Farmer John



Joined: 18 Feb 2010
Posts: 181
Location: Manawatu NZ

PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 8:52 pm    Post subject: Door skin Reply with quote

Hi. Yes, of course you can but you might need to make your own tool. Tools are available, have no idea whether you could get one in UK.
Among the many possibilities are end cutters, tack removers, fencing pliers (farmers), as a starter to be ground to shape.
You might need two, vise grips with a good fine chisel tip welded to the end would be good to start the lift as they apply more force and will fit better where the door frame is close to the edge.
A disc grinder with cut-off disc will take care of tack welds. Must be done very carefully and slowly, aim for one thou at a time.
The skin need not be removed from the frame, just loosen the flange and the frame will move.
Aim to lift the flange by "unbending", that is, reverse it's forming process. Put another way, f the flange "curls" up from the frame it will be almost impossible to hammer down flat without damaging the outer skin.

John
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nqtraderman



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 66
Location: Southport, Merseyside

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the hints John, I'll try to loosen the edges (somehow) and see if the frame will twist.

Rick: its a full resto so paint damage to the skin isn't an issue
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Kelsham



Joined: 18 Jan 2009
Posts: 349
Location: Llandrindod Wells Powys

PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have seen a small piece of metal wedge shaped welded to the jaws of a pair of Mole grips that was specially devised to remove door skin edges. should be easy to make.

Regards Kels.
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MikeEdwards



Joined: 25 May 2011
Posts: 2713
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you mentioned in the first post, I should think the biggest problem is access to get the tool, whatever it is, underneath the edge of the fold to start lifting it.

When I'm splitting panels that have been spot welded together, after the spot-weld drill I tend to use the blade of an old wallpaper/paint scraper as it's very thing but also quite strong.

I take your point about the grinder not being suitable, thinking that perhaps what people are doing (if the skin is not to be re-used) are grinding around the edge so it just falls off - but what about a thin cutting disc (maybe even in a Dremel-style tool) around the edge on the inside, that is, after the fold? So you'd still have the nice folded edge all the way around, once the frame is correct you would carefully (and slowly) weld it back in place and grind the welds down. Heat distortion might be an issue, would have to go very slowly.
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nqtraderman



Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 66
Location: Southport, Merseyside

PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Managed to pry the skin flange back using a combination of screwdrivers and cold chisels after grinding the tack welds off. A good bit of twisting followed and now it fits perfect. Thanks for the suggestions guys, much appreciated.
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Rosco663



Joined: 17 Dec 2012
Posts: 257
Location: South Australia

PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I am too late with the reply but for those of you contemplating spot weld removal try one of these or similar depending on your weld size.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spot-Weld-Drill-Bit-7mm-x-74mm-HSS-/330594246404#vi-content

Cheers
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