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Long term project, primer dilemma,....
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jonny_bravo



Joined: 16 Oct 2012
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:59 am    Post subject: Long term project, primer dilemma,.... Reply with quote

Hi all,

Just joined up Very Happy

I have a MK2 Escort Mexico project that I am about to start work on.

At the moment its basically a very solid rolling shell and a big pile of parts stashed here there and everywhere! ,. my mail goal is to do what ever I can bodywise before my skill runs out, then it will go off to a body shop for any major welding if needed and of course a nice paintjob!

Shell has had some work from a previous owner, underside of floor is coated in red oxide after being blasted/stripped, had various welding repairs which have also been primed with red oxide (which to be honest looks to have done a good job of preventing any rusting - considering this work was done 12 or so years ago)

Anyway,. There are a few areas of light surface rust that I am going to take to bare metal, treat with phosphoric acid (milkstone remover Very Happy) and then give a coat of primer. We are talking inner wings and a few areas around the front + rear screens to start with

Now, what primer/paint can you guys recommend?,. after doing much reading it seemed etch was always the way to go,.. but now I am seeing epoxy recommended as it is not porus?,. then i see Zinc primers being recommened,. to be honest i am a little unsure of the way to go.

I dont have a compressor btw,. so I was looking at rattle cans.


Sorry for the long first post,. much appreciate any advice given!
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Polypedates



Joined: 24 Sep 2012
Posts: 16

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the intention is just to stop rust and you don't have a compressor then I'd be inclined to stick with the red oxide primer as a sacrificial coating (seeing as it has proven its worth) and let the body shop strip it and do the permanent priming properly so the final colour coat looks the best it can be.

That said, if you know what body shop you are going to use then ask them what they'd like to get when the time comes. They may recommend something else that is easier for them to strip or paint over and therefore save on the labour involved.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 4231
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2012 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi and welcome

If you are not going to paint the gloss straight away, I'd use either a 2 pack primer or epoxy primer as neither will absorb moisture (most primers absorb moisture and this can cause the top coat to bubble months after its been applied). As you dont have a compressor brushing may be an option, I have brushed 2k having added loads of thinner, I don't know about brushing epoxy, have a word with these guys. http://www.rust.co.uk/products/category/32736/custom-421-epoxy-body-primer/

As you suggest a dose of phosphoric acid is a good idea Very Happy

Dave
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jonny_bravo



Joined: 16 Oct 2012
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thankyou or your replies chaps, that epoxy is looking a good solution so I will do some more research on that.
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Desert Fox



Joined: 21 May 2013
Posts: 25
Location: Leeds

PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jonny

Just joined the forum and noticed the discussion regarding epoxy primers. I hope I can help and not tread on any ones toes?

Providing the surface to be painted is prepared correctly, epoxy primer is the best primer to use on any surface to protect against corrosion. Most 2k automotive primers do not prevent corrosion as they are polyurethane / polyester and have limited corrosion protective abilities.

Obviously, there are many differences in anti corrosion performance depending on manufacturers. There are differences because of the amount of anti corrosion pigments added by the manufacturer which has an impact on the price. The best performance will be from a 2k epoxy primer all of which may be painted with whatever you choose after correct curing.

Contrary to what anybody may tell you, it's the primer that stops corrosion not the top coats.
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