Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.
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inca
Joined: 15 Feb 2013 Posts: 4
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:39 am Post subject: Weld, Fibre Glass or body filler Repairs? |
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Hi
Just joined the forum and this is my first post!
I am doing a rolling road restoration on a Series 2 E-Type Jaguar. Stripping off all the old paint and looking for the typical places where rust sets in I've found some sections around both sides of the front sill box sections that need repair and rust treatment. One side had already had a fibre glass repair over it which I have removed. - pics below.
http://s1353.beta.photobucket.com/user/inca007/media/sillrepair_zpse3663b44.jpg.html
http://s1353.beta.photobucket.com/user/inca007/media/rust_zps5dd511f1.jpg.html
Please can I have some recommendations based on this type and size of rust hole which method of repair (weld, fibre glass or body filler) would be best.
I appreciate metal for metal a steel weld repair would be best but the size and access to do this (along with little experience in welding) makes it a bit tricky. Am I really coping out if I went for a fibre glass or body filler repair instead of welding and will I be back again in 1-2 years time..? Any advice also on product and techniques to get this job done!
Thanks
Mark |
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Rick Site Admin

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 22788 Location: UK
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Orsom Weels
Joined: 12 Feb 2013 Posts: 1 Location: Nr Downham Mkt, Norfolk
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 11:38 am Post subject: |
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Hi Mark,
Welcome, I'm new here aswell. Re your rust problems, I would have to agree with Rick, welding is the ONLY way to go ! Body filler will act like a sponge & soak up any moisture arround & just add to your problems, Fibreglass will help keep the water out but will add nothing to the structural soundness of your car & the rusty metal will continue to rot unseen underneath it all. If you don't have the skills/equipment yourself, there are plent of garages, or as Rick suggests, mobile welders that will be happy to assist.
Hope this helps,
Tim |
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inca
Joined: 15 Feb 2013 Posts: 4
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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Hi
Many thanks for your advice. I have recently been given a mig welder but still practicing on scarp metal until I pick up enough skill and experience and confidence to tackle something like this on my jag! May even go on a night course. In the meantime ill get a mobile welder in for this. I guess I'm looking at round £120 for this work £40/hr with min 3 hr call out?
Regards |
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baconsdozen

Joined: 03 Dec 2007 Posts: 1119 Location: Under the car.
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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You can save the welder some time (and you,money) if you cleanb off as much paint and rust as you can prior to them arriving.Also if you can remove any obstructions so that they car access the repair as easily as possible and jack up the car on axle stands etc it all helps.
Some of the do it in your garage type outfits can do a good job,better ask around and find out who is recommended.
Best of luck with the restoration. |
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heathelect
Joined: 30 Nov 2008 Posts: 85
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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Mate I had the same problem about welding, never done it before, so I bought a mig, practised with it, and then restored my consul capri, major welding to sills,floor,chassis, rear panel, arches, engine bay etc,etc, it saved me a fortune, and I gained a skill that will be with me for ever now !!!
dave |
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ukdave2002
Joined: 23 Nov 2007 Posts: 4240 Location: South Cheshire
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Posted: Tue Feb 19, 2013 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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If its not structural, there are panel bonding adhesives available today, used by manufacturers and bodyshops alike. 3M amongst others make them, on a lap joint you are effectively sealing it at the same time.
A patch on a body panel can also be soldered in, again with a lap joint the solder will act as a seal as it flows into the joint by capillary action.
Dave |
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