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What Are Your Engine Assembly Top Tips?
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3491
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:58 pm    Post subject: What Are Your Engine Assembly Top Tips? Reply with quote

Dropped the Morris 8 engine off at the machine shop this morning, it will be done for Friday, so hopefully I'll be re asembling it this week end.

Do you have some useful tips when re-assembling an engine?

Cheers Dave
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Roverron



Joined: 04 May 2008
Posts: 135
Location: Yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolute cleanliness and lots of oil on the bits before you fasten them together. Clean all the threads with taps/dies before starting will really help.
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Rick
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 21021
Location: North-west UK

PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you having done? bores, crank etc?

Rick
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Various 1920s-1960s - Austin, Morris, Commer, Dodge etc.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3491
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick wrote:
What are you having done? bores, crank etc?

Rick


Bores are at a maximim so having liners fitted which will take it back to standard 57mm bore, new valve guides, valve seats cut, crank reground, may have camshaft bearings fitted (non on a standrd engine) although on quick first inspection they didn't think this would be needed, block and head sufraced.
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3491
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any tips and words of wisdom do you have regarding fitting of the cork and rope crank oil seals? Do I soak the cork and fit wet or as someone suggested boil in gearbox oil first?
looking at them in the gasket set it is hard to belive the rope and cork are ever going to be reliable seals on a spinning crank Shocked !!
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Rick
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know when I re-fitted the sump on my E83W, I left the rope seal soaking in oil overnight first

Rick
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3397
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A decent well callibrated torque wrench, If you need one over the weekend, I can bring one from work, recently tested?

Cheers

Dave
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Rick
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah don't make my mistake with the torque wrench - ie relying on one that hasn't been wound off back to zero when finished with on previous jobs!!

R
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ukdave2002



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 3491
Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

buzzy bee wrote:
A decent well callibrated torque wrench, If you need one over the weekend, I can bring one from work, recently tested?

Cheers

Dave


Dave that would be really useful if I can take up your offer.
I do have torque wrench but its 20 years old, never been calibrated , not used in anger for 10 years and I suspect will have been stored without zeroing on many occasions Embarassed !
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no problem, pm sent Smile
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1882
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't remember if the pistons fit from the bottom on the Morris 8? if they do: make sure they remember to chamfer the bottoms of the liners. They didn't when they did my Austin 10/4 and I had to make a special tool to compress the rings when I had to refit a piston at a later date (with the engine in situ,) I had fiddled about for half a day before realizing this was the only course. Mad Mad
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peter scott



Joined: 18 Dec 2007
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Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah! I know that problem. You can get one hand into the crankcase to push one side of the ring into the bore but what about the other two? sides?

Even if the liner is chamfered it's a fiddle. I seem to remember trying to get a ring compressor in but for some reason that I've know forgotten this was impossible and I ended up poking around with scriber points to get the rings in. Shocked

Oh, and you've got to remember where the ring location pegs are if your pistons are so designed. Evil or Very Mad

Peter
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buzzy bee



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
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Location: South Cheshire

PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Did you try wrapping a little shim steel around the pistons, and sliding them through that? (Just to get you in the bore)

Cheers

Dave
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pigtin



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 1882
Location: Herne Bay

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Buzzy,
I did something similar to that. I used a piece of steel packing banding fitted into a slot in the end of a 5/16" rod. When the rod was rotated the banding compressed the rings. Confused

Don.
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Jim Walker



Joined: 01 Oct 2008
Posts: 124
Location: Chesterfield, Derbys.

PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From experience, my top tip would be to remember that oil (or grease) cannot lubricate where it cannot get. "Tight" fits are not good. The clearances recommended by the manufacturer allow for expansion AND lubrication. Don't rely on a tight bush or whatever to bed itself in - it will often be damaged before it does, possibly siezing. This does not apply just to engines, but to everything that rotates, slides, oscillates or any other type of bearing surface including king pins and bushes etc.

Jim.
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