Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[zagatoman]

Hi all,

Just got my new 1936 Morris 8 series 1 and wondered if anyone could answer a question.

The clutch seems to work OK but the bite is right at the top of the pedal travel, what can I do about this. Do I have a worn clutch or can I adjust so the bite is lower down on the clutch pedal movement.

Hope someone can help.

Paul
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Enthusiastic amateur classic car nut.

[goneps]

Possibly the clutch is worn, but more likely it simply needs adjustment. To access this you'll have to remove the floorboard. Apologies for the out-of-focus shot, but the salient features are visible.



The pedal arm is not fixed on the shaft but works via a stud through a slotted quadrant (adjacent to the spring). The inner face of the quadrant is serrated, as is the washer under the nut. Simply slacken the nut and move the pedal arm relative to the quadrant before retightnening. The washer's serrations are offset, so by turning it through 180° a half-serration adjustment can be made.

Correctly adjusted, there should be not less than 1/2" free travel at the pedal pad before resistance is felt. If this is already the case then it looks as though the clutch needs relining or replacing. It's a standard Borg and Beck 6 1/4" clutch as fitted on many British cars, including the post-war Minor, so readily available.

By the way, 'bight' is not right—you mean the other kind of bite.

Richard

[bjacko]

As well as the above the pedal clearance should also be checked between the clutch pedal arm and it's stop bracket, so that with the pedal pressed until the carbon thrust just contacts the withdrawal plate the gap measures 1 1/8" to 1 1/4". This means the clutch should be fully engaged in drive with the correct gap of 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" .

[zagatoman]

Thanks for all the advice, very helpful. I will try and sort this out when I get the time.

Paul
_________________
Enthusiastic amateur classic car nut.