Classic cars forum & vehicle restoration.

[Elmer]

As the new, proud but inexperienced owner of a Cheltenham Waterbuck which is in need of a bit of TLC, I'm in need of advice on paint -
Primer? Coach paint? What sort? Brush, spray or roller? Tips on preparation, approach and application? Cheltenhams have both aluminium panelling and fibreglass ends/ roofs.. HELP

[Rick]

I'll move this to the caravan section as you're more likely to get caravan-relevant advice in there.

Welcome along

RJ
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[ajlelectronics]

Just regard it as a large car and paint accordingly. Once surface is prepared, just spray it as normal. If you have exposed aluminium or fibreglass, a quick etch primer coat is all you need. My Sable was painted in 2 pack and you can see the result on the previous thread. If you can't do 2 pack, the cellulose will do a splendid job and even if the finish is not perfect, you can work on it once hard to make it so.

[Elmer]

Thanks - it'll have to be done on our driveway so I'm not sure how practical it'll be to spray though I'll look into it - and sorry, which thread was that?.. I read somewhere that coach paint was better suited because of the flex in the frame and panels, car panels being relatively stiff? Has anyone had experience of using Tekaloid or similar? Or cellulose?

[OchAye]

An alternative is "Tinkers' Paint" - 3 parts liquid gloss paint to 1 part yacht varnish, applied using a foam roller. Preparation is all important.

More info here - http://www.thomson-caravans.co.uk/advice/diyprojects/caravanpainting.htm

[Elmer]

Much appreciated, that's a useful link!

I've had some advice from a bloke at my work that ideally the fibreglass and aluminium sections should be treated differently (since they expand/ flex differently with heat, etc.), but that view doesn't seem to be borne out by the other information I've found.

This was also of interest:
http://coachpainting.info/

Has anyone else taken the foam roller/ brush approach?

thanks

[bob2]

where the aluminium is bare be sure to etch prime it first before putting any other paint on it, otherwise the paint will peel off eventually!!
And I'd second that both surfaces need to be treated differently but in the end you can use the same topcoat without any problem!!

[Elmer]

Thanks again - after further research I came across this link, I'm leaning toward the rollered Rustoleum approach!
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/pages/downloads/tech/paintfor%A350.pdf

..I'll let you know how it works out.

[ajlelectronics]

[gresham flyer]

As someone who likes to restore their cars to a very high standard I hate this term "Blowover" or advertised cars being sold with inferior paintwork and told it just needs the wings blown in.

As someone who restores period properties for a living how would a customer like it if i told them we would just brush a lick of paint over their period drawing room or hallway over flaking paint or visible runs.

It is a waste of good paint to just point a spray gun at an ill prepared panel.

Gresham Flyer

[ajlelectronics]

Agree totally, which is why in my post, you will read that I recommended that the OP do the prep, then get the bodyshop to do what he can't. Nett result is a good job.

I understand your aversion to the term "blowover" due to its negative connotations, but here, it was a sort of shorthand.

I too despise the bodge artists, more now because I am having to deal with the dire result of one.
Scimitar GTC, resprayed 10 years ago, it said. What he meant was a 2 pack spray job straight over the micro blisters, stress cracks and everything else. I am having to take all the paint off now, down to the gelcoat. Thanks a bunch.
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